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时尚芭莎

《时尚芭莎》是时尚传媒集团与拥有150年历史全球最著名的时装杂志《Harper's BAZAAR》版权合作的结晶,是一本全球性的真正引导潮流的高级时装杂志。 《时尚芭莎》为时尚女性提供了最权威的时尚资讯和优雅体验,让时尚的女性更成功,让成功的女性更时尚。《时尚芭莎》是最高端的时装月刊,最全面的时尚全书, 数据排名上升最快的媒体,向读者传达最丰富全面的时尚潮流和精神世界,为用户创造超出预期的精彩内容。

www.bazaar.com.cn

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创意品项

展览信息

北京站

地点:今日美术馆

时间:2017年9月25日-2017年10月20日

成都站

地点:成都国际文化艺术中心

时间:2017年11月18日-2017年12月13日

上海站

地点:MOCA上海当代艺术馆

时间:2017年12月22日-2018年3月11日

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苏芒

《时尚芭莎》总编辑/出版人
时尚传媒集团总裁

苏芒的话:

女性、时尚、杂志、艺术、潮流、生活方式,《Harper's BAZAAR》作为全球第一本时尚杂志,一百五十年来用艺术、创新、美学创造出一代又一代的经典。在回顾它漫长的历史长河时,我们发现,“破界”是所有创新的起点。因为《Harper's BAZAAR》就是不断打破已有的认知,甚至是乐于并享受这个过程,这个打破再重组周而复始的过程是我对“破界”的理解,也是最摩登的一种思想状态。

创立于1867年的《Harper's BAZAAR》,在过去的一百五十年中历经两次世界大战,却从未停刊,即便在兵荒马乱的二战时期。在我眼里,她,就像一部人类对于美的探索史,并影响到音乐、文学、舞蹈等各类艺术,可以说是一切欢乐的源头。150年来不断为世代女性带去时尚和时尚的精神。

一个半世纪中,无论世事变迁沧海桑田,她,始终熠熠生辉。就像一个优雅的女人,用魅力感染影响了全球时代女性,始终秉持着一种创造时尚、引领潮流、倡导个性生活方式的精神,教会全世界的女人,你的人生不能有被任何人、任何世俗以及既有规则所限定的观念。

她秉承着传奇的主编Carmel Snow 提出的“Well-dressed woman with well-dressed mind”的女性精神,激励着全球时代女性在追求完美的道路上不断前行。她引导女人发掘自己的美,将“缺陷”暴露,缔造了独特的美学,成就了一批又一批独一无二的明星超模,让全世界的女人找到自信;她开创了第一个动态拍摄;她吸引了海明威、达利、杰夫·昆斯、赫尔穆特·纽顿、彼得·林德伯格、安迪·沃霍尔等艺术大师为时尚创造;她开创了无数时尚的先河,将时尚的魅力和理念延展到艺术、科学、自然文化和生活中去。从1867年至今的一百五十年是当之无愧的BAZAAR时代,因为她打破了美的界限,她让时尚成为一个新媒介,她用杂志媒体联系起我们与这个世界,她也当之无愧地创造了一个破界时代!

“破界/BAZAAR150周年时尚艺术大展”,我们用传统的杂志编辑的思路,聚合艺术、时尚、经典三大元素,将BAZAAR见证的一百五十年分为了六个篇章:美好时代,BAZAAR开启女性觉醒新纪元;装饰艺术时代,BAZAAR带领人们探索纵情愉悦地生活;叛逆时代,BAZAAR大声宣告“为自己而活”;东方美学时代,《时尚芭莎》开始在中国的传奇;跨界时代,时尚成为消费文化的超级媒介;而特别设计的未来篇章,我们则想邀你一起创造全新的破界潮流,拥抱艺术、科技、环保、音乐以及任何美与灵感。

“破界/BAZAAR150周年时尚艺术大展”,是传奇时尚杂志《Harper's BAZAAR》的全球盛典,是对时尚美学与生活风貌创造者的致敬,更是向《时尚芭莎》千万读者、用户的特别致意。同时,这也是一次新的时代宣言:从现在起,《Harper's BAZAAR》与《时尚芭莎》,将经典与现代美学和艺术再次融合,向你展示一个一百五十年时尚之美的历史画卷。

Su Mang

Publisher/General Editor of Harper's BAZAAR China
CEO of Trends Group

The Preface by Su Mang

Harper's BAZAAR, the world's first fashion magazine has been the classic "Fashion Bible" for centuries with her artistic initiatives and aesthetics. In the retrospection of Harper's BAZAAR's history, it is easy to find out that bound breaking is the starting point of all her innovations. She keeps overturning existing cognition and enjoys the cycle of breaking and recombining.

Founded in 1867, Harper's BAZAAR has never been shut down even during the turmoil and chaos of two World War. Focusing on fashion, trendsetting and personalized lifestyle promotion, she's like an elegant lady who passes her irresistible charm and ideas to all women around the world. She is the history of beauty exploration, and has influences on all kinds of arts. It can be said that she is the fountain of joy and the source of trends; it indeed enlightens all women's senses of fashion for the past 150 years.

"Well-dressed woman with well-dressed mind" is the key spirit of Harper's BAZAAR, which was firstly brought up by her legendary Editor-in-chief Carmerl Snow, and it inspires women to keep on going towards the path in pursuit of perfection. By guiding women to discover their own unique beauty and to accept their imperfections, Harper's BAZAAR has given women more self-confidence and to appreciate their unique aesthetics. She also tells women that they shouldn't be bounded by anyone, any secular concept, or any given rules.

She has made fashion-magazine history in numerous aspects: first action shots; first collaboration between fashion and other artistic fields; and it is her who firstly attracts prominent artist such as Ernest Hemingway, Salvador Dali, Jeff Koons, Helmut Newton, Peter Lindbergh, and Andy Warhol to create special pieces for fashion. From 1867 to the present, she has extended the boundaries of beauty and made fashion magazine a new medium to connecting us with the world.

Breaking Boundaries/BAZAAR 150th Anniversary Exhibition has six chapters based on six historical period, and each chapter is composed by three parts: Classic, Art, and Fashion. It is the global festival of Harper's BAZAAR to celebrate her legendary, which pays honor to the makers of style, and special respects to her readers and supporters. Meanwhile, she will once again render classics in the perfect harmony with modern aesthetics and art by presenting a vivid scroll of her extraordinary 150 years!

1867年,全世界第一本女性时尚杂志诞生了。这本包含了时尚、礼仪、园艺的周刊一出现,就受到了罗德岛贵妇们的喜爱 。创刊以来就坚持“集时尚、享乐、知识之大成的”的《Harper's BAZAAR》,从美国走向欧洲,成为经历战争也未曾停刊的时尚杂志。 她以极致的画面、生动的表达、启发女性主权意识的文章成为时代的先锋。在纯真保守的爱德华时代(Edwardian Era),女性渐渐从紧束的胸衣中解放出来,一种自然逸动的时装风格即将诞生。

In the year of 1867, Harper's BAZAAR, the world's first female fashion magazine was published. This weekly magazine, including fashion, etiquette, and gardening, was quickly favored by the elegant upper-class ladies from Rhode Island. From USA to Europe, she epitomizes the greatness of fashion, pleasure and know-how since her publication; more than this, she is the legendary fashion magazine that has never been shut down even during the wartime. She was in the vanguard of Belle Époque with the delicate pictures, lively expressions, and articles which has enlightened the awakening of feminism. During the sweet and innocent Edwardian Era, women gradually freed themselves from the tight corsets; a more relaxing fashion style was to be developed soon.

#Vivienne Westwood

London has long been a centre for talent in the fashion industry - now there's a new book celebrating exactly

CHANEL

Photograph of CHANEL boutique Deauville (1913) © All Rights Reserved

1913年,香奈儿女士和亚瑟·卡柏在杜维埃香奈儿的服饰店前。

CHANEL

Video Work «Once Upon a Time» By Karl Lagerfeld(2014)© CHANEL / Karl Lagerfeld

«Once Upon a Time»影片 执导:卡尔·拉格斐

罗伯特·汉克

《云纱》

激光装置

罗伯特·汉克《云纱》
Robert Henke «spline»

从天花上悬挂下来一个纵长为120米的薄织物,它形成一种弯曲的幕帘的排布。房间的四个角落各安置一个激光器,每个都投射出十六道尖锐的光束。 幕帘的悬吊形状是使用“仿样内插”的数学原理计算出来的。 通过用激光束追踪表面,64条相交线合成的复杂几何图形得以通过光和雾的媒介而形成。 声音和激光通过算法过程实时控制,运动与声音事件同步,在展览期间创造无限数量的变化。

皮皮洛蒂·瑞斯特

《伍拾五十》

影像装置

皮皮洛蒂·瑞斯特《伍拾五十(为一个停车场所作的装置)》
Pipilotti Rist «Cinquante Fifty (Installation for a Parking Lot)»

这件影像装置充满着梦幻和迷离般的视觉效果。作品通过相同的影像投射在室内角落,为观众制造了沉浸式的体验。悦耳的歌声和转瞬即逝的摄影,挑战了观众的视觉,从而营造了一种解放之感,唤起了人们对于逃离身体、情感和精神禁锢的欲望。

经历了第一次世界大战的洗礼,20世纪20年代被视为一个改头换面的全新时代。工业蓬勃发展,汽车成为普遍的代步工具,纵情愉悦的氛围弥漫在空气中。平均每季50部新剧的产出,让百老汇达到顶峰时代,装饰艺术充斥在各个领域:建筑、时装、出版、珠宝。从纽约天际线上最美的那颗星星——克莱斯勒大厦到艺术家萨尔瓦多·达利(Salvador Dali)为《Harper's BAZAAR》的创作,装饰艺术全面影响着人们的生活。

After going through World War I, the 1920s were seen as the brand-new era. With the boom of industry, cars became the popular mean of transportation and the air was filled with luxurious, enjoyable pleasure. The average output of 50 new plays per season made Broadway reach its zenith. Fashion, publication, jewelry as well as architecture were flooded with Art Deco elements, which had a significant impact on people in all aspects, from Chrysler Building—the most dazzling star of New York skyline, to the special works that the prominent Spanish surrealist artist, Salvador Dali, made for Harper's BAZAAR.

Vivienne Westwood

London has long been a centre for talent in the fashion industry - now there's a new book celebrating exactly

CHANEL

Gabrielle Chanel in her suite at the Ritz Paris. Published in Harper's Bazaar in 1937, this photo was chosen for the Chanel N°5 advertisement. For the first time, Chanel herself promoted her perfume. Photo François Kollar
© Ministère de la Culture – France

香奈儿 N°5香水的广告出现在1937年出版的《Harper's Bazaar》上。这是香奈儿女士第一次亲自推广她的香水。相片由弗朗索瓦·科拉拍摄。

CHANEL

Mirrored staircase at 31 rue Cambon © Sam Taylor-Johnson

香奈儿寓所之镜梯。相片由萨姆·泰勒·约翰逊拍摄。

萨姆·泰勒·约翰逊

《弦》

影像装置

萨姆·泰勒·约翰逊《弦》
Sam Taylor-Johnson «String»

在作品《弦》中,来自伦敦皇家芭蕾舞团的领舞伊凡 · 普特洛夫被威亚悬挂在皇家歌剧院阴郁的古典建筑里。“空中悬停”的不稳定状态激发起观众的惊奇,同时伴随着由人类身体的脆弱、无助而引发的焦虑与紧张之感。在舞者赤裸的身体下方,四位音乐家正在演奏柴可夫斯基弦乐四重奏的第二乐章。艺术家的影像与她的全景摄影作品一样,凝固了一个情境场面的瞬间。

在1956年以前,时尚的视野总是聚焦于30、40岁的名流贵妇;而以后,时尚开始关注年轻与反叛的一代。“奢华50(Fifties Glamour)”也由此而生。在这个时代,被摇滚乐、新浪潮电影、波普艺术感染的年轻人,穿上了超短裙和夸张色彩的时装,他们高喊“要做爱,不要战争”;而另一派时装迷,则是穿着剪裁考究的“权利套装”,以杰奎琳·肯尼迪(Jacqueline Kennedy)为代表的“第一夫人”,正教会职场女性什么是得体与时髦。她们,组成了解放自由的变动年代。

Before 1956, the sight of fashion only focused on celebrity ladies that aged around 30s or 40s. Hereafter, fashion started paying more attention to the young and rebellious generation—the "Fifties Glamour" was born. During the Rebellious Era, the young generation, who were influenced by Rock 'n' Roll, New Wave films and Pop art, put on their miniskirts and dramatic clothes in hyperbolic colors, shouting loudly: "Make Love, Not War". Meanwhile, the other faction of fashion lovers was fascinated with well-tailored "Power Suit"—represented by the First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy, who taught office ladies how to dress appropriate and stylish. These two diverse trends built this free era of liberation.

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刘建华

《黑色的火焰》

陶瓷装置

刘建华《黑色的火焰》
Liu Jianhua «Black Flame»

作品的灵感来源于自然中火焰的视觉形象,从传统的文化视觉中火焰与人的情绪,与现实都有关联,表达了热烈与旺盛的社会发展水平。使用陶瓷材料将中国传统手工艺与当代艺术创作形式相结合,是对陶瓷材料新的认识,从中探索更多的可能性。

当美国经济进入“知识经济”的新时代,远方的亚洲,日本消费及创意产业蓬勃发展,中国则在1979年打开国门,开始一个新时代!5000年的文明与历史,与现代时尚碰撞,产生了全新的东方美学,被《Harper's BAZAAR》中文版《时尚芭莎》记录、表现、演绎。

While the "Knowledge Economy Era" came in America, consumption and creative industries were rapidly booming in Japan. China, this great nation, also opened up to the world in 1979—a new age was coming! The collision between this 5000 years old oriental culture and the western vigorous fashion style emerged a unique oriental aesthetics, which was recorded, presented and interpreted by Harper's BAZAAR 's Chinese Edition Harper's BAZAAR China.

#Vivienne Westwood

London has long been a centre for talent in the fashion industry - now there's a new book celebrating exactly

CHANEL

Detail of a Coromandel screen in Gabrielle Chanel's apartment © Sam Taylor-Johnson

香奈儿寓所之乌木漆面屏风局部。相片由萨姆·泰勒·约翰逊拍摄。

徐龙森

《山水图腾》

水墨山水

徐龙森《山水图腾》
Xu Longsen «Shanshui Totem»

徐龙森的作品以宏大的尺度和精微的笔墨着称,在以开放性公共视域为主体的现代性社会,他的巨幅山水画,不仅复兴了山水画的重要品质—雄浑恣肆、磊落旷达,且以“守正创新”的理念开创了新时代文明的正大气象。此件雕塑装置徐龙森用宣纸包裹住直径1.2米可转动的圆柱,使用升降梯直接挥墨创作。全新的山水实验已经超越了东方和西方艺术的界限,庞大的尺寸和笔墨的情趣并存,令观众随着作品中看不出时间与空间、历史与地理存在感的“胸中丘壑”之山水,不断的攀向精神之高峰。

2000年之后,因为时尚,杰夫·昆斯(Jeff Koons)、草间弥生(Yayoi Kusama)等艺术家开启了艺术与时尚的跨界风潮。在此之后,各大品牌频繁地邀请艺术家联名创作。经过十几年的发展,今天的跨界,不再是艺术与时尚的对话。科技、环保、音乐等各个学科与时尚的互动越来越紧密。时尚,创造着一个全新的破界时代。《Harper's BAZAAR》与《时尚芭莎》,也开始了新的故事!

Jeff Koons, Yayoi Kusama and other artists started the cross-over trends of art and fashion since the year of 2000. And thus, the fashion brands frequently invited artists for joint design. Having developed more than ten years, cross-over design is now more than the communication between art and fashion. Fashion interacts more closely and unexpectedly with music, technology, environmental protection, and other various subjects. Fashion is creating a brand new era as the Harper's BAZAAR and Harper's BAZAAR China start to write their fascinating new stories!

#Vivienne Westwood

London has long been a centre for talent in the fashion industry - now there's a new book celebrating exactly

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琵卡·博曼

《霓虹-象》(1号)、《霓虹-域》(2号)

组合装置

琵卡·博曼《霓虹-象》(1号) 、《霓虹-域》(2号)
Pieke Bergman «Phenomeneon» «Phenomeneon-Sphere»

为庆祝时尚芭莎150周年,芭莎中国特意推出《That's So Bazaar》收藏家版,同时艺术家琵卡·博曼将以系列作品“PHENOMENEON”(现象)出发, 再创造一个新的作品。此次参展的两件作品都是由带霓虹灯组块的手工玻璃制成,非常独特。其效果令人着迷:蓝色霓虹线,在空间像画笔一样,自由移动,点亮亦或突然熄灭。琵卡说:“现在没有多少人会盯着某个东西看很长时间。 所以当人们停下来注视并好奇这件作品是什么, 或者是怎么做成的,我就会很开心。”

我们在1867 到2017的五个华美篇章中, 探索了《Harper's BAZAAR》这本传奇杂志150年来见证的非凡瞬间。融汇了时尚、艺术、文学、音乐的美学百科《Harper's BAZAAR》,正在以无边的想象力、创造力拥抱未来。这里,我们打破了经典、时尚与艺术的边界,描绘了一幅未来、时间和人的美好图景。

In the last five chapters, we have explored the extraordinary moments from the past 150 years which was witnessed by the legendary magazine, Harper's BAZAAR. Harper's BAZAAR, the aesthetic encyclopedia integrating with fashion, art, literature and music, is embracing the future with unlimited imagination and creation. By breaking the boundaries of classic, fashion and art, Harper's BAZAAR is portraying a beautiful image of future fantasy, timeless elements, and human nature.

Hibanana Studio

《渐-第一章节(1.1-1.3)》

声音影像装置

Hibanana 工作室 《渐-第一章节(1.1-1.3)》
Hibanana Studio «Transition-Chapter 1(1.1-1.3)»

“渐” «Transition» 是一个动态的时间的概念,在中文中意为一个情景向另一个过程的转化和过渡。在临界状态中的转化和变化,仿佛一个生命的完成,和另一个生命的开始。艺术家苗晶从大量的中国古塔、古门、动物、法器等元素中寻找灵感,创作了以视频为主体的动态雕塑。均衡动态运转中的门与道、时光与瞬间错综有秩地不断循环,透露出平衡之美及自然哲学。

展览信息

北京站

地点:今日美术馆

时间:2017年9月25日-2017年10月20日

成都站

地点:成都国际文化艺术中心

时间:2017年11月18日-2017年12月13日

上海站

地点:MOCA上海当代艺术馆

时间:2017年12月22日-2018年3月11日

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